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Chiang Khan – Wooden Houses and Monk Alms

Last Update: February 2022                       * affiliate links disclaimer   


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I can not even begin to count the number of times that I’ve visited Thailand. Some visits were just short beach holidays or passing through on my way to other destinations. Several, longer visits involved extensive travel for months on my way to nowhere, just exploring this wonderful country.

And although the list of Thailand’s highlights seems endless, there are still many places like Chiang Khan that are not yet completely overrun by tourists, but certainly worth discovering. Interesting cities oozing with local culture. Small laid back riverside towns and spectacular nature reserves. Not all of them hidden gems necessarily, but without the usual crowds, only visited by the few travelers in the know.



Chiang Khan


monk alms in chiang khan
Chiang Khan – Wooden houses and monk almsphotocredit @doghall

Oh, did I say no crowds? Well, It seems that things have changed a bit in Chiang Khan. Back in 2006 Chiang Khan was still the sleepy village on the banks of the Mekong. Just a handful of backpackers found their way here to relax before their trip would take them into Laos.

Nowadays however, on weekends and public holidays, the village is invaded by well to do weekend trippers from Bangkok. They come for Saturday Mekong sunset, a touch of national heritage and the beautiful surrounding nature. On Sundays in the early morning they go out to the streets to give alms to the Thai monks. It’s a big thing here in Chiang Khan and quite an impressive site. By Sunday evening the hordes will all have left and you can have the town to yourself.


photocredit dewiogf3p1fo


Well, at least the Mekong is still there, mysterious, grand and beautiful as ever. Still, we might also have to fear for the Mekong as upstream waterworks in China and Laos are threatening to bleed the river dry, but that’s a story for another day.

I still think this is a good place to come. It may have strayed a bit from authenticity, but the local Tai Dam people are still around and friendly as ever. The town is atmospheric and the direct vicinity offers many temples to visit. Moreover, the surrounding nature and the mighty river Kong remain the absolute stars for now with majestic viewpoints.


Chiang Khan sunsetphotocredit @shopee



Reasons to visit/skip Chiang Khan


3 Reasons to visit Chiang Khan

  • Part of travel is to learn about culture and traditions of the host country. In Chiang Khan we can witness and even participate in the ritual of monk alms up close. What a great way to build and share mutual understanding and respect;


  • Come here to see another side of Thailand. Less well known doesn’t mean less beautiful or less fun. Experience the slow pace, non-nonsense lifestyle in the Thai countryside, combined with the friendly and hospitable nature of the local population;


  • The beautiful surroundings in the North of Central Thailand is eminent. There’s river, mountains, jungle and plains, all of them offering gorgeous views to last you a lifetime.



2 Reasons to skip Chiang Khan

  • On weekends and public holidays, half of the Bangkok population visits Chiang Khan. For well to do Bangkokians it’s the hip and happening place to be. The usual intimate and tranquil atmosphere that makes Chiang Khan so special is nowhere to be found. As a result the accommodation rates are up big time and even through the roof around the new year celebrations;


  • If you came to Thailand with the white sand beaches in mind then you might want to skip Chiang Khan. There is no beach and none of the atmosphere so typical to beach destinations. It’s just not that kind of place.



Things to see/do in Chiang Khan


Chai Khong Road

One of the main draws of Chiang Khan, besides the stunning river views, is the Chai Khong road. For 2km teak-wood houses line this road parallel to the riverside. The majority of wooden houses have been rebuilt, renovated or remodeled into boutique hotels and souvenir shops. I have to admit that, although it has a slightly artificial feel to it, on the whole it’s nicely done with attention to original details.


Hotel front on Chai Khong Road: With A View Hotel – Chiangkhan


Phu Thok

Phu Thok mountain is a popular viewpoint just 5km South of Chiang Khan. People come for the panoramic views of the mountain area and the Mekong river. The most spectacular view is to be seen at sunrise when a thick blanket of fog comes in from the Mekong over the landscape. Tuk-tuks from Chiang Khan normally charge about THB100 for a round-trip to the foot of the mountain. From there, visitors are transported up the mountain road (2km) in the back of pick-up trucks (THB25 p/p). This attraction is very crowded on weekends and public holidays.


phu thok near Chiang Khan
Phu Thok fog coming inPhoto by icon0.com from Pexels


Temples

Chiang Khan and its surroundings boasts many temples and some of them are really worth a closer look. Wat Sri Khun Muang is probably the most revered temple in Chiang Khan. It’s built in the Northern Lanna and Lan Chang styles with detailed mural paintings. The temple is easy to access from Chai Kong Road and opens from 6am to 6pm.

Skywalk Chiang Khan

Another spectacular viewpoint about 20 km to the West of Chiang Khan where the Mekong river flows into Thailand from Laos and merges with the Huang river. This huge installation consists of two sky bridges, three 80 meter high glass platforms and a 19 meter high Buddha statue. It offers fantastic views of the landscape and the river’s duo-tone caused by the coalescence. Note that the shuttle bus from the parking charges THB25 per person and the rental fee for special shoes is THB30 for a pair.


Skywalk Chiang Khan photocredit @travelalotthailand


Tai Dam village

About 18 km South of Chiang Khan is the small Tai Dam cultural village. The original village name is Ban Na Pa Nat and it’s inhabited by the Tai Dam hilltribe (black Thai, because of their black clothing). It’s very much like an open air museum where the Tai Dam demonstrate their traditional handicrafts and arts. Yes, they put up a show, dancing in folklore costumes and of course they are happy if you buy some of their products. They are however, very much authentic and the small extra income from tourism enables them to keep their culture and traditions alive.


Tai Dam celebrating


Kaeng Khut Khu

Another popular viewpoint is at Kaeng Khut Khu at the Mekong, 5 km East of Chiang Khan. When water levels are low there are spectacular rapids on display against the backdrop of a beautiful mountain landscape. To get there from Chiang Khan is easy enough with a rental bicycle and it’s kind of nice to go it your own. Alternatively, one of the many tuk-tuks in town will be more than happy to transport you there and back.

Make sure to only visit Kaeng Khut Ku in dry season from November to May. Colorful boulders are then exposed that are completely submerged when water levels are high. Also, the presence of a, normally submerged, small Island in the middle of the river forces the water to go around it and accelerate. You can make a day of it if you decide to take a boat tour and have your lunch in one of the traditional river bank restaurants.


Chiang Khan
View from Kaeng Khut Khu



Travel Insurance

Do not skimp on travel insurance! Keep in mind that you’re a million miles away from professional and reliable health care. Any serious injury or ailment will almost certainly involve costly medical transport to Bangkok.

Make sure to cover your medical care abroad that includes evacuations and repatriation. Also include adventure sports and activities, even if you’re only hiking or renting a scooter.


Read more about travel insurance here, or get an instant quote right now!



Where to stay in Chiang Khan


Accommodations are mainly clustered in Chai Khong street parallel to the Mekong. This is also the most lively area with restaurants, bars, markets and handicraft shops. Chiang Khan is renowned for offering small scale, quality boutique accommodation.

Unfortunately, decent low budget options are becoming more and more rare these days. Good deals can be found in the side and parallel streets of Chai Khong Road. No river views, but equal quality and lower rates.


BaanXiaoKhan
Mid Range = THB1000 to THB2500

This is how I remember guesthouses in Chiang Khan. Only now, there’s wifi / aircon and of course prices have gone up. However, the location on Chai Khong road with river views and the service are top notch and justify the rates. Also, a hearty breakfast is included.


With a View @ Chiang Khan
Mid Range = from THB1000 to THB2500
The new kid in town. A lovely guesthouse with a nice teak wood touch and an excellent in-house cafe. Small, but comfortable rooms and beds in a well kept environment. Of course there’s a great view of the Mekong. Breakfast and free bicycle rent included.



Where to eat in Chiang Khan


There’s certainly no shortage of places to eat in Chiang Khan. Plenty of secluded (pricey) restaurants with pleasant river views, as well as small local eateries offering an array of Isan, Laotian, Chinese and even Vietnamese delights are abundant.

Kraw Si Pan (Chai Kong road, next to the Dai Heng hotel). Price wise an exception from the usually more expensive riverside restaurants. The local Mekong (lot’s of fish) dishes here are surprisingly affordable and can be enjoyed in a cozy atmosphere.



Kinsende kinkhowder (road 211 in between the Wat Matchimaram and Wat Maha Tat). A somewhat strange name, but I was told that it’s phonetic local dialect meaning ‘eat the noodles, eat the rice’, and then it kinda makes sense. Anyway, this restaurant offers an extensive menu of Thai and Thai/Western dishes. They do this extremely well for unbeatable prices.


Lovely dish from Kinsende Kinkhowderphotocredit @painaidii


Tam Dong Dang (road 211, 150 meters East from the Chiang Khan hospital). Thai style restaurant as we all know it. Honest local food where locals come to eat. Opening hours are from 7am to 7pm, so best for lunch or an authentic Thai brekkie.



Night Market Thai markets are always a reliable source for good food. The night market of Chiang Khan is situated on the Eastern stretch of Chai Kong road and is also dubbed ‘Walking Street’. Next to t-shirts and handicrafts there are many small local eateries and street stall vendors that sell all kinds of local sweet and savory snacks.



How to get to Chiang Khan


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Daily flights from Bangkok only take 1h15m to get to the city of Loei in the North of Central Thailand. From here it’s just under 50km to Chiang Khan. Use the Skyscanner website to search and book your flight. Sometimes flying is cheaper than buses and trains.

Buses leave the Mochit terminal in Bangkok every morning and evening for a 10 hour bus ride straight to Chiang Khan. Buses from Chiang Mai only go as far as Loei. At the Loei bus terminal find the blue colored songthaews (Caged pick-up trucks with benches) with number 1395. They drive up and down to Chiang Khan every 30 minutes and the going rate at the time of writing is THB35 one-way. You won’t find the songthaew tickets online, you just have to show up at the bus terminal.

For bus/ferry/train schedules and tickets from Bangkok to Chiang Khan and from Chiang Mai to Loei, use the transport planning tool below from 12Go.asia to book online. Especially during high season and public holidays it makes sense to book ahead to secure your seat(s). Just fill out your place of departure, your destination and travel date. It will show the complete schedule and ticket price of all related transport. Make your choice and book instantly.


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Getting Around

Even with its new found popularity Chiang Khan is still a small town and all interesting stuff happens near the riverside. Because of this, the town is easily navigated on foot or by bicycle. The latter are easy to rent for about THB100 p/d. If your lucky, your guesthouse may even offer them free for use.

It has been said that motorbikes are not rented out to foreigners in Chiang Khan. Officially because of a serious crash by a tourist, but more likely because of the local tuk-tuk mafia lobby. I have no idea if this is true or if it’s just a rumor. Should anyone know more about this, please share your knowledge with us in the comment section below.



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